drinks&nibbles: Goldenrods, Caviar, and Yellow Label

Inspired by New Year’s Day, but equally appropriate at any celebratory brunch, there’s nothing like bubbles and eggs. Goldenrods are the type of charming dish where simple, inexpensive ingredients are transformed by a healthy dose of Southern ingenuity. Whipped up in short time, often without warning, by mothers and grandmothers alike for hungry crowds, it is rare to find a written recipe for this Dixie delicacy. Fancier than they have the right to be, here I push them over the edge by serving them as finger food with Champagne and topping them with “as much Caviar as you can afford.”

Goldenrods
Makes about 36 1½-inch or 24 2-inch, or 6 whole toasts

6 eggs
6 to 10 pieces sturdy white bread, sourdough works nicely
4 tablespoons butter, divided
½ medium onion, very finely diced (about ¼ cup)
¼ cup flour
3 cups whole milk
½ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Pinch ground nutmeg
Few chives, snipped, for garnish
Few pinches paprika, for garnish
1 to 2 ounces caviar, optional, but highly recommended

Hard cook the eggs: Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Place an egg in the cups of a mini or standard muffin tin. Bake in the center rack for 30 minutes. Immediately remove to an ice bath. When fully cooled, peel, cut in half, and separate the yolks from the whites. Roughly chop the whites into ½-inch pieces, finely mince the yolks and set aside.

Toast the bread: Using a cookie cutter, cut the bread into rounds or triangles of desired size, or leave whole. Place on a single layer on a baking sheet. Place under broiler for 30 seconds to 1 minute, keeping a close eye, till golden brown. Turn toast over, repeat and set aside.

Make the “gravy”: Melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté till translucent, about 3 to 5 minutes. Add the remaining butter and raise the heat to medium-high. When completely melted, add the flour and quickly whisk to avoid any lumps. Continue to cook and whisk for a minute or two till nutty and golden. Slowly add all the milk, continuing to whisk. Cook until bubbling and thickened, whisking occasionally, about 10 minutes. Season with the salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Add the chopped egg whites and stir to heat through. Remove from heat.

Assemble: Place the toast on a serving platter or individual plates. If using smaller rounds, top with about 2 tablespoons of the “gravy.” Large rounds should be topped with 3 tablespoons of “gravy” and full toasts a little more than a half cup. Evenly divide the minced yolk and garnish with a sprinkle of paprika and a few snipped chives. If desired, top with as much caviar as you can afford.